Since her brand "promotes positivity and embraces color,” Katrantzou wants to spread “the uplifting [effect] that wearing prints and color can have. ” She says, “It’s about having a brand that’s democratic across age, size, and other identities.
It forced Katrantzou and her team to change the way they work, given the very specific dimensions of the prints the brand is known for. "It’s almost as if you’re creating a new print for every single size,” she says.
Having celebrated a decade in the business, she's become more acutely aware of how restrictive traditional luxury sizing can be—from both a business perspective as a personal point of view, as a curvy shopper herself. “There was an assumption—and I think I’m living proof of it—that if you’re curvy, you want to wear black,” Katrantzou tells Glamour by phone. “And it’s exactly the opposite.
Runway, she says, has always been made-to-measure and will continue to be that way. “When you decide to broaden that significantly—not just for one or two sizes—you have to give it the time that is needed to be accurate in your sizing so that the fit is precise,” Katrantzou says. “The path we’re on now is to be able to say in a year’s time that our size grading is as accurate at a size 14 as it is at a size 24.
This does mean that, moving forward, there might be fewer prints per collection, or repeat patterns that come up from time to time, to make the production cycle more sustainable while still offering as much product in the full size run. “I feel it’s much more important to do fewer prints, do them well, and do them across all sizes.
Mary Katrantzou's work is instantly recognizable. The Greek-born, U. K. -based designer's eye-catching graphics have appeared on red carpets (fans include Cate Blanchett, Lupita Nyong’o, and Thandie Newton), on concert stages (she outfitted Beyoncé exclusively for the Global Citizen’s Festival last year), on the Victoria’s Secret runway (through a limited-edition collaboration), and in museums (at a SCAD retrospective this summer).
PSA: Not every curvy girl wants to wear only black. https://t.co/9RGiprYuPa— Glamour (@glamourmag) June 5, 2019
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