Photography: J’Dee Allin for Christian Dior Parfums. “I work intuitively,” Phillips added. (He has done the makeup for Jones's shows dating back to his eponymous label, Dunhill and Louis Vuitton). “We said, ‘ok, let’s try the Blade Runner in pastel thing,’ and then we tried some more and it became too much.
He has also created an all-gender makeup line, called Dior Backstage by Peter Philips, which is anchored in simplicity—earthy, neutral fundamentals like a lip palette with nine gradations of rose-y hues.
The annex was serving as the beauty testing area for Dior Men’s much-discussed Miami fashion show, which was held last night at the new Rubell Museum complex in the city’s Allapattah neighborhood.
The idea paid off, and spoke volumes as to why Dior Men has become one of the most influential labels in the menswear sphere: Jones surrounds himself with a sharp group, from Yoon Ahn on jewelry to Melanie Ward on styling to Philips on beauty, and more.
Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Christian Dior Makeup, sat down and cut right to it: “It’s like there’s this mellowness, but it’s also chaotic right now.
He pointed to Dior Men’s pre-fall 2019 show in Tokyo, where he and his team created adhesive skin decals inspired by Hajime Sorayama’s retro-futuristic cyborg illustrations and sculptures (Sorayama was a collaborator on the show and collection).
His men’s beauty tactic, since Kim Jones arrived, consists of a calibration between the fresh-faced and boosts of flash. “It’s natural looking, with a little twist from time to time, where we push it a bit further,” Philips said.
The beauty at Dior Men’s Miami show, though, was no doubt one of the night’s highlights.