Unless, of course, your alma mater happens to be the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, in Antwerp, where the dream team behind this story—the photographer Willy Vanderperre, the stylist Olivier Rizzo, and the makeup artist Peter Philips—met and first collaborated in the early 1990s. “I remember when we started shooting together, it was just daylight and a reflector, and slowly the spotlight came in, and then studio lights,” says Philips, who is the creative and image director for Christian Dior Makeup. “Now Willy is a lighting virtuoso.
Philips had to leave early for a show, and time was of the essence. “Luckily, we know each other so well we can practically read one another’s minds,” Philips says. “We don’t need a big debate or three-hour briefing, just a few key words. ” In fact, for this shoot they needed only two: “new” and “wave. ” Specifically, a contemporary take on the graphic makeup looks of Steve Strange, the vocalist of the British band Visage, whose 1980 hit “Fade to Grey” practically defined the synth-pop genre. Philips created a flawless, dewy canvas for his update to club-ready war paint using his new Dior Forever foundation.
Philips prepped Bell’s skin with Dior Hydra Life Sorbet Crème before stenciling graphic shapes around her eyes with his Dior Backstage Eye Palette in Rosewood Neutrals. “It’s an old-school technique,” says the makeup artist. “I used tape and paper to make straight lines, and then filled in the color.
To intensify color and glow on the model Akon Changkou’s cheeks, the makeup artist Peter Philips blended a bit of pearlescent red lipstick with Dior Forever Skin Glow 8N Neutral foundation and applied it under a wash of Rouge Blush in 999.
That’s why they really pop. ” And in what might be the most New Wave–y gesture of all, Philips used tape and paper stencils to create angular shapes around the eyes. The resulting looks feel totally of the moment, yet also reminiscent of Philips, Vanderperre, and Rizzo’s creative origins. “The three of us went our own ways, but we still try to shoot together when our calendars allow us to,” Philips says. “Naturally, our work has evolved, because beauty and fashion have evolved.