Only state-of-the-art pigments are used, similar to ones used in traditional tattoos. I insist on working with one’s natural brow shape and not a previously shaped brow. All clients that have had any tweezing or previous hair removal must begin with the Feathered Brow process (growth training) which can range anywhere from six-12 months and include strategic tweezing every six to eight weeks (with no tweezing in between). My greatest fear is to overdo any technique and take away the very thing that gives us a beautiful, natural brow with its individual character.
"It’s natural-looking brows, maybe a little undone or lived in. ” We consulted the renowned brow maven on her tweezing philosophy, the perplexing Microblading craze, (she has her own softer, more natural version, thankfully), and the perfect tips for a good pluck that’s right for your face.
There’s a triangle tip and powdery formula that is great for filling in sparse areas, adding fullness and definition to the brow. Use it to lightly shade skin under the hair using short feathery strokes, gently going against the hair growth direction to get underneath the hair—then blend out with the brush side of the pencil.
You really need to consider the entire face. One of the most common mistakes I see is matching the brow pencil to the hair on the head which can often times be highlighted or a different color all together. When filling in your brow, you always want to use a product that matches the brow hair color and the lightest touch possible.
Even randomly tweezing a few hairs growing down your lid will affect what can grow in the areas where you need it. I always tell clients any hair that grows from your eyelash line to your head’s hairline is a part of your brow. It’s really less about how much hair you are tweezing or not tweezing but more about when and how frequently you are tweezing.
Common mistakes are not having the right products or not working with the natural shape of the brow. Educating and talking to clients is the most important way to help them have the right brow for their face and hair texture.
I thought Microblading looked much too over-filled and resembled a tattoo. I soon realized it was more the way it was being taught. I then decided to get certified and it wasn’t until I started developing my own technique that I recognized the many variables that can affect the end result. I spent a year developing my own technique, “Microfeathering” on over 300 test models, using it more conservatively as a “fill-in” technique rather than re-creating an entire brow.
I progressed with my technique and subsequently discovered a far more effective after-care method and sometimes recommended a number of sessions (sometimes it takes three to four) to achieve the best results. To be more specific, microfeathering is at least a two-appointment process. To ensure the most natural result, the two sessions are six to eight weeks apart. After the first session, I evaluate the healed strokes and additional hair strokes may be added and previous strokes may be reinforced.
This can be the quickest fix in creating a fuller brow. Think of this as mascara for the brows. When you add volume and richness to the lighter hair/ fuzz that grows around and between the thicker brow hairs, it creates the illusion of a fuller, more natural brow.
The process is achieved without the use of machines or traditional tattoo guns. After numbing the area with a topical cream, small incisions are created by hand, using a fine and very precise blade. Pigment is then deposited into the incisions, resulting in an incredibly natural-appearing "eyebrow hair".